I’m nearing the end of my Japan entries! On 11/05, my husband and I left Kyoto. We packed a small bag, and then sent the rest of our luggage to arrive the next day in Tokyo. We weren’t heading to Tokyo yet though; we had a little stop planned in the small and quiet town of Hakone.
We went to Kyoto station to catch a Tokyo-bound bullet train that stops at Odawara on the way. While waiting for the train, we bought two ekiben which are “railway lunch boxes”. They’re commonly sold at Japanese train stations and often feature local specialties. They’re tasty to-go meals, so you can eat on the train!
It took 2 hours to get to Odawara, which seemed like a busy station. However, as we used the local train towards Hakone, it became a lot quieter. Hakone is beautiful – probably the prettiest place we visited while in Japan. It’s surrounded by mountains and just has a peaceful and relaxing air about it. My photos don’t even do it justice (especially since it was a cloudy day).
We went to Lake Ashinoko first. It’s commonly visited by people who want a view of Mt. Fuji. It can only be seen on a clear day though, so it wasn’t visible this time. (We didn’t mind since we had seen Mt. Fuji previously.)
The real reason we were here was because I wanted to stay in a ryokan, a traditional Japanese inn. Though many Japanese cities have them, I really wanted one that wasn’t in the middle of a city. I wanted one in a quiet scenic area, and thus, I chose Hakone.
From the lake, we took a bus ride over to our ryokan, Kijitei Hoeiso. We were shown to our room, served tea, and given yukatas to wear while there. This entry is a bit long because I want to detail the experience!
The room was like renting an apartment! We had an entryway for our shoes, a sitting area, a main sitting/dining area, a bathroom, bedroom, and changing room. Most of the floor used the traditional tatami mats. The bath was also the type where the shower is separated from the tub. The idea is that you clean yourself with the shower, and then only use the bathtub to soak and relax.
This is the same for the onsen (hot springs). You’re supposed to be clean (and naked) to enter it. Not all ryokans have onsen, but fortunately, Hoeiso had indoor and open air (outdoor) ones. Both are separated by genders. I tried the indoor one first, which I have to admit was an awkward experience. I had never been naked around strangers before, but I went with the flow like everyone else and managed to relax. (And by everyone else, I mean only 2 other women who were there.)
Shortly after I returned from the onsen, we were served our kaiseki in our room. It’s a traditional, multi-course Japanese dinner, and the one at Hoeiso was hugeeee. It was about 11 dishes, and it was great that it included local dishes and specialties. I was so stuffed!
Afterwards, we headed to the open air onsen, which were no longer public use after 7:00pm. Hoeiso allows you to reserve private time at night. It’s the only time you can share an onsen with the opposite gender so… we booked one 🙂 I loved their open air onsen. It’s right next to the river and very close to the mountains. We couldn’t see them in the dark, but we could hear the river flowing. It was soooo nice.
We had an early breakfast planned, so we went to bed early. Earlier, someone had set up our futons (the bedroom is empty when you first arrive). They were the traditional ones set on the floor. I often get asked if it’s uncomfortable, but it wasn’t. It’s not the most comfortable thing I’ve slept in, but it really wasn’t bad.
The next morning, we were served another huge meal! We had the choice between an American or Japanese breakfast, and of course, we chose Japanese. It wasn’t as large as dinner but still very filling.
Since we chose the earliest breakfast time, we figured the onsen would be empty. We went to the open air ones again, and then separated into our respective genders since they were public use now. We were right though. They were empty! Since it was day time, I was able to appreciate the scenery around me this time. I didn’t take a camera with me (for obvious reasons), so I will have to show Hoeiso’s photo.
We wanted to take an early train to Tokyo, so we checked out after relaxing in the onsen. Ryokans can be expensive because they charge per person (ours was ~$350 USD total for both of us, our friends paid over $400 in Kyoto), but you get a large room, really attentive service, use of the onsen (if any), and the price already includes the dinner and breakfast. I thought it was a really great experience and would recommend it!
The next entry covers going back to Tokyo, which is the last leg of our trip!
Glad I “walked in” on these detailed posts about Japan. What a beautiful scenery! I’m glad the overall hospitality style hasn’t changed since the last time I was in Japan [which was about 15 years ago]. Although I lived along the west coast, seeing these pictures sure brings back memories. I WANT TO GO BACK NOW!!! 😀
Holy crow!! That Ryokans sounds like bliss. Totally worth the money. Delicious food I bet too!
I don’t think I would be brave enough to go nude in public. I’ve a pretty private person. But it sounds like you two had fun!
Your trip sounds like a huge trip with all of these posts :P. These bento boxes look amazing! (Or ekiben in this case). I like how everything is separated into their own little sections and everything.
The lake looks beautiful! It’s cute how the hotel gave you and your husband the yukatas to wear. It feels so homey and native, XD. And everything looks so old school Japanese with the wood and sliding doors!!!!! I must try out one of these if I ever make it to Japan!
In today’s time, I can’t imagine going anywhere in the public naked, especially in front of strangers! I’m glad you overcame the awkwardness and just went with it. For all of the service, I’m sure it’s definitely worth the $350!!! Especially with the meals being served to you and everything!!!!
I’m probably jumping too far or I may have asked before…. But did you try legit Kobe beef????? I was spazzing out over wanting legit Kobe beef at one point recently.. 😀
Ekiben is actually short for “station bento”, so you can still call them bento boxes 😀 I originally planned on having Kobe beef! Kobe is about 45min from Kyoto or 20min from Osaka, but we ended up not taking the trip there. I hope to have some the next time I go!
those foods looks so tasty wow. Yeah! I think it’s a good idea to try it instead in the city, it’s more natural that way. (wow, Kyoto sure is expensive) The scenery looks exceptional! I’m glad you got to experience even though it was a bit awkward, I’m sure it was fun to try!
Wow, you’re so courageous to bathe naked in front of strangers! I’d definitely find it awkward also but I’d love to try a real onsen one day.
I think the next time I go back to Japan, I’ll try a ryokan, it looks like such an enjoyable experience. The food looks really interesting too! The portions really tiny but when they serve you so many portions, you’d definitely get full!
It’s also pretty cool that you were able to book a private onsen session, it’d be kind of a bummer to not be able to fully enjoy the scenery and the experience if you were just by yourself.
So behind on your Japan trip posts, but I’m going to stalk the crap out of them.
You probably took a great amount of time to create this post & since I’m very familiar with spending hours on a post, I think you deserve at least one really lengthy thoughtful comment for your hard work! You know, something that clearly states, “I READ EVERY SINGLE CHARACTER IN YOUR POST.” 😀 😀 😀
JAPAN. I NEED IT IN MY LIFE. LOOK AT THAT BENTO BOX. IF ONLY WE HAD THAT KIND OF STUFF HERE!!!! Can you imagine flying from Texas to Washington or NYC with a Bento box of American food? Oh wait, tHAT’S WHAT THEY USED TO DO BEFORE THEY DECIDED TO CHARGE YOU UP YOUR BUTT FOR FOOD THAT TASTES LIKE CARDBOARD. Thanks, America. Thank you. Anyway, man those are so tasty. Were they also worth it? Not as good as restaurants, but still pretty good? & you rode on a cool bullet train! Was it your first time? I’ve never been on one so tell meeeeeee, how was it? Was it really neat? It was quiet, but was it clean? (who am I kidding, of course it is, it’s Japan!)
Love your reasoning for staying at Hakone. You may claim that your photos don’t do it any justice, but I can just envision myself there through you photos & just taking it all in. It looks so gorgeous. I absolutely love peaceful serenity mountains, lakes, & fog hold. It’s underrated beauty. I love cities & tall buildings & beautiful architecture (London, Brighton, Amsterdam), but man…the countryside…that is also so breathtaking. I don’t know how you only posted 4 pictures of Hakone, I would’ve taken 28934729374 & they probably all would’ve been the same haha. It looks incredible.
You & your husband are SO ADORABLE IN YOUR YUKATAS AHHHHHHHHH!!! SO CUTE. hahah i love it!!!! I actually said, “omg they look so cute!!!” out loud when I saw this post. Not even joking.
Wow that room of yours is huge!! It’s like renting an entire apartment from AirBnB! Or having a timeshare! I’d love to stay at one of those places, except not sleeping on a foam mattress or foam pillow would destroy my back. Really sensitive to that stuff, but seriously, so nice!!
I’m so glad you included the price of your experience. $350 per person is completely reasonable for that whole experience. Your whole place was so huge. You had great service with the person coming in & setting up your futons for you, & you had lunch + dinner included. Kaiseki too!! I’ve always wanted to try some, but you know how it is around these Japanese restaurants: omakase or none at all. I love the idea of kaiseki though: local dishes, perfectly served to bring out the best of flavors. Sigh, what a romantic trip. Good on you for braving the nakedness! You have to do it once, but you did it what, three times? hah! Very nice. If you love your body & are comfortable in your own skin, well, you’ve nothing to be ashamed of! Sure it’s a little awkward, but you get over it, right? 😀 What an experience. Can’t wait to see your next post!
Thanks for the thoughtful comment, Tiff! I always love and appreciate those 😀
The bento was good! The only weird thing is that it looks like something that would be served warm, but most ekiben are cold (which that one was). The bullet trains are nice! I had ridden the Maglev in China before, and we ended up using the bullet train 3 times in Japan. It’s pretty quiet and stable for how fast it’s going. Also, tons of leg room! Imagine airplane seating but take out every other row XD They put in enough room so that you can sit there with your luggage in front of you if you have any.
haha thanks! It was fun to wear yukatas the whole time we were there. Some ryokans have Western-style beds in some of their rooms, so that’s also an option 🙂 It was actually $350 total for both of us, sorry for the confusion! It’s not bad for 1-2 people, but it gets pricey as you have more people.
Going to a public onsen was awkward, but I’d probably do it again! It was nice!
oh man, i’m freaking out over anything and everything in this post. i love bentos and i’d definitely buy that railway lunchbox (///o///) i’m a sucker for japanese lunchboxes. they always look so neat and determined, unlike plastic lunchboxes in other countries where the food looks like they just crashed -__-;;
hakone is so breathtaking ;w; i love how japan still have these kind of places; hakone, okinawa, hokkaido… i mean tokyo is nice and all but when you want somewhere quiet and scenic, japan can offer that for visitors and that is really really great.
i would love to try the onsen *o* …though i hate heat haha
ugh all the food looks so tasty i can’t handle it TTATT you’re so luckyyy
Oh gosh, I’m so astounded at your Japan trip. Like I reread this entry more than 3 times just because I couldn’t wrap my head around it. I can’t handle the scenery, THE FOOD, and just the overall wonderful experience you are having with your husband.
I’m beyond jealous and I’m beyond starry eyed!!
Ha so you did stay at a Ryokan! How could you not. I know what you mean about wanting one in a scenic area, because otherwise it kinda defeats the purpose. Your husband seems to know how to drink his tea, LOL. XD
Wouldn’t it be less awkward if there were MORE women in there? LOL. Everyone would be too busy to look at anyone else. My friend who visited Japan at first didn’t accept how everyone had to go in naked (she is Australian) but thought if she didn’t try it she would be missing out on a big part of the culture. Before her visit I had to show her an article explaining that nobody would care, and that if you WEREN’T naked you’d feel embarrassed. I know how that feels very, very well. =/
I think $350 isn’t a lot at all for a wonderful taste of culture! (Plus you’d pay over $200 for a tiny room in New York.)
haha, I didn’t think of that. I guess I’m not sure which way would be more awkward! I was just glad it was mostly empty, and I could have a side of the tub to myself 🙂 (I think most onsen require you to be naked or else you can’t use it.)